Cuy Al Horno

We arrived back to our happy haven, Ninos Hotel (A+, no breakfast, but great hot water pressure and temperature with a beautiful courtyard and helpful staff) in Cusco early evening by train from Aguas Calientes. We stayed here one night before heading to Machu Picchu and we were very happy to return.

Cusco is a charming, hilly city with narrow stone streets, churches on every corner, and a place where traditional Peruvian dress is still alive. Some of the old stones date back to the sun-worshipping Inca Empire, of which Cusco was the capital. But after the Incas, the Spanish took over and left the city with it´s charming colonial architecture. Thankfully, although it´s the gateway to Machu Picchu, Cusco does not feel overrun by tourists. It´s located at the base of the Andes mountains at a daunting altitude of 3,400m (or 11,000 ft), making the air noticeably thinner and the breathing harder. Even after a couple of days, you still notice it when walking upwards, which is in unavoidable in this hilly city. The locals use Coca leaves, chewed fresh or dried in tea, to reduce the effects, something I´ve really taken to. Some of the other Forsheys tried medicines that they bought at home, but felt dizzy as a side-effect anyway.
The first night back in town, we ate at a local (no other gringos in sight) pollo a la brasa place before hitting the sack early. We were planning to get up for Easter sunrise service in the main cathedal in the Plaza de Armas and, to our surprise, we were there when the huge wooden doors opened. We rushed in alongside the locals to grab the Forshey church pew (last one on the left) and sat through an hour-long mass. Later that morning, we headed back out to see the Semana Santa celebrations, but only caught a small dancing troupe and a group of protesters. We were disappointed since we had read there would be religious celebrations. As it turns out, they happened a week before we arrived. Still hoping for more religious fervor, we followed the crowd down the street and into other churches until we ended up at the central market. This turned out to be ideal since Lee and Brett were planning a visit anyway.
What a great market! Lee and Brett bought coffee, coca leaves, and had some ceviche, while the rest of us tried a beer and juice drink. The girls also scored great deals with the jewelry near the meat aisles. Tons of earrings for only 2 S/. each. But the best part was discovering the sheep placenta for sale. It´s to be boiled with salt, then served whole... hmmmmm.
For dinner, we went to the local Peruvian fast food joint: Bembos. It was good, but oddly expensive...not something any of us were expecting. After the early meal, we headed back to Ninos for multiple rounds of card games (Golf, renamed Cuy) and had some drinks. The "cool" kids then headed out for more wild times in Cusco. Good Times!
Monday was the first day we could sleep in since meeting up in Iquitos, so we all jumped at the opportunity. The afternoon was spent visiting the famous Qoriqancha-Santo Domingo Convent (originally Temple of the Sun), eating Cuy (guinea pig) and exploring the San Blas district where we all bought chocolate con coca. La Chomba, the local Cuy restaurant recommended by the hotel staff was great! It turned out to be a crowded little local place with wandering live musicians. We ordered a couple different dishes off the chalkboard, but made sure to order 4 half Cuy dishes. What an experience...just check out the pictures. Although, the Cuy does not have lots of meat to offer, it tastes pretty good. Imagine good moist dark turkey meat.
The last dinner together was spent at a local Menu place before heading back to pack our bags. The other 6 Forsheys left for the airport the following morning at 5:45am, while Lee and I caught the night bus to Arequipa.
Admittedly, it was sad to see the crew go. We have really enjoyed their company the last several days and will definitely miss them.